Decanter  |  March 2018
MATURE RIOJA
Back in the 1850s, the Marquises of Riscal and Murrieta brought Bordeaux know-how on how to age wine to Rioja. the results were so spectacular that Rioja became a recognised fine wine region in less than twenty years.
Indeed, the best Rioja wines benefit much from oak ageing and have a unique capacity to gain complexity and silkiness after many years in bottle. the 1895 Riscal or 1900 Murrieta are nowadays excellent, complex wines, ready to drink but still capable of keeping. this is why, until recently, Rioja categorised its quality wines according to ageing time (crianza, reserva and gran reserva), rather than by geographic origin or brand. Nobody knows why those wines have that capacity. Some say it is because of classic Rioja viticulture, on bush vines with no chemicals. Others speak of traditional
wine making methods, exposing the wines early to oxygenation and then to long periods in old barrels. Finally, some experts talk of exceptional terroirs. But it is also worthy of note that both red and white Rioja wines share this capacity for lengthy ageing.
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