PLEASE LEAVE OUR FOOD ALONE!
Has the food world’s obsession with novelty gone too far? Is ‘re-invention’ just another word for ‘needless crimes against foodstuffs’? Debora Robertson reckons there is such a thing as an innovation too far – and it leaves a nasty taste in the mouth
ILLUSTRATIONS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES
I don’t have much time for purity for purity’s sake. It feels overwhelmingly bleak. It’s to food what “Well, actually…” is to conversation. It sucks out all the joy. And often it’s a slick form of snobbery too. The person sneering up their sleeve at you for using pancetta instead of guanciale in your carbonara doesn’t care what it tastes like. They’re very excited though that they’ve caught you out in your (to them) lamentable act of ignorance. My advice to you is to move along quickly before they start droning on about their gap year assisting an artisan salumiere in Umbria. Save yourself.