THE TASTER
Yves Camdeborde led a revival of French bistro food in the 1990s with his restaurant La Régalade, followed by Le Comptoir du Relais, where a table is all but impossible to get. Now he has opened the third of his no-reservation “Avant Comptoirs” with L’Avant Comptoir du Marché, a bustling place in the Marché Saint- Germain serving creative, gourmet versions of tapas throughout the day.