IT IS AN ‘unnamed road’ on Google Maps, this stretch of tarmac to the village of my grandmother’s family. Built relatively recently, the single track threads its way round the peninsula – the tiny villages of Ardheslaig, Fearnbeg, Fearnmore, Arrina, Lonbain, Camusterrach and, the now infamous, Culduie, irregular stitches at Scotland’s seam. A light in a house catches the eye, rare in this abandoned landscape.