The simple guide to PICKLING AND FERMENTING
It’s a tradition that goes back centuries, yet it’s become the hallmark of trendsetters and hipsters from San Francisco to Shoreditch. Some of the most beloved British foodstuffs, from chutney to piccalilli, rely on the transformative powers of pickling and fermenting, and if you haven’t yet fallen in love with kimchi, you may be about to meet a new flame
RECIPES, FOOD STYLING AND STYLING GEORGINA HAYDEN FERMENTATION TEXT CHARLOTTE PIKE PHOTOGRAPHS ANDREW MONTGOMERY
what’s good now.
WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE?
FERMENTATION is a process in which the chemical makeup of a substance is changed by the activity of bacteria, yeast or mould (or a combination) – and this can happen in vinegar/brine.
PICKLING, on the other hand, is a process in which ingredients are preserved by immersing in brine or vinegar (or both). Sugar is often added and heat is often applied – as in making chutney or piccalilli. Fermentation and pickling both greatly increase the lifespan of the food being preserved.
HOW TO BALANCE THE FLAVOURS
With pickling, sweetness, heat and spice can be added to create balance. For sweetness, add sugar to the pickling liquid or aromatic spices such as cinnamon, clove and cardamom. Add heat and heft with mustard seeds, chilli, cumin and coriander seeds. As foods ferment, a sour tang develops with time, becoming more pronounced the longer your jarful is left to ferment. Add spices for heat and flavour. Keep the fermenting food cool to slow the process.
Baby veg piccalilli
MAKES 4 X 350ML JARS. HANDS-ON TIME 40 MIN, PLUS AT LEAST 12 HOURS PICKLING AND 1 MONTH DEVELOPING
MAKE AHEAD
The piccalilli will keep for up to 3 months in sterilised jars, in a cool place.
KNOWHOW
See how to sterilise jars at deliciousmagazine.co.uk/videos/how-to-sterilise-jars.
• 1kg baby vegetables (a mix of courgettes, carrots, shallots and cauliflower florets works well)
• 75g fine sea salt
• 2 heaped tbsp cornflour
• 2 tsp ground turmeric
• 1 tbsp English mustard powder
• 1 tbsp yellow mustard seeds
• 500ml white wine vinegar
• 1 garlic clove
• 2cm piece fresh ginger
• 2 bay leaves
• 150g granulated sugar
• 4 tbsp honey
YOU’LL ALSO NEED…
• 4 x 350ml jars with airtight lids, sterilised (see Know-how)
1 Cut the vegetables into even, bitesize pieces and put in a large glass or ceramic mixing bowl. Sprinkle with the salt and mix so all the vegetables are coated. Pour in enough cold water to cover, then leave overnight, stirring once or twice.
2 The next day, drain the veg in a colander, then rinse thoroughly to wash off the brine. In a mixing bowl mix the cornflour, turmeric, mustard powder and mustard seeds with a splash of the vinegar. Pour the rest of the vinegar into a saucepan large enough to hold all the veg and set on a medium heat. Finely slice the garlic and ginger and add to the vinegar along with the bay leaves. Add the sugar and honey and bring to the boil. Once it starts to bubble ladle some of the vinegar mixture into the bowl with the mustard mixture and whisk until smooth, then pour it all back into the pan. Whisk well and boil for 2-3 minutes until the spiced vinegar starts to thicken.