seasonal
At its best game changers
PLANET FRIENDLIER
Cooking with game is easier than you think – plus, it’s seasonal, sustainable, lean and good value. Here, Barney Desmazery puts a wild spin on classic dishes
photographs JAMES LEE
G
ame has been misunderstood for a long time, but with a fresh perspective, it should become more popular as an ingredient. It has often been dismissed as overly rich in flavour and the reserve of chefs or highly skilled home cooks. Both ideas are way off the mark. That strong taste was often the result of meat being hung for too long, sometimes out of bravado – people daring each other to see how gamey they could make it. Fresh game birds do have a more pronounced flavour than farmed poultry, but it’s not overpowering. As for cooking it, you don’t need to be a trained chef. If you can handle a pack of mince or chicken breast, you can cook venison and pheasant. When it’s in season, game is one of the most sustainable, delicious meats you can eat. So, here, I’m taking a few much-loved dishes and swapping out the usual meat for game – I think you’ll love the results. Barney Desmazery
KFP (Kentucky fried pheasant) burgers
Pheasant breasts are the perfect size to fit in a burger bun, and as they’re so lean, cooking them in a crisp coating ensures the meat stays succulent. If you’re trying to convert any game sceptics, this would be a great place to start, as a juicy burger is surely one of the most irresistible things to eat.