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Digital Subscriptions > Lonely Planet Traveller (UK) > September 2018 > THE HUNT

THE HUNT

Often billed as the world’s ultimate wildlife spectacle, the Great Migration of wildebeest and zebra takes place annually across the plains of East Africa; we travel to Tanzania to try to catch up with the herds
Thomson’s gazelles keep a close eye on a Landcruiser trundling through the acacia-studded grasslands of the Serengeti plains of northern Tanzania
A young female leopard rests in the crook of a tree after hunting a gazelle
The delightfully named superb starling, found all over East Africa.
Noel Akyoo’s career has taken him from Kilimanjaro expeditions (summited 32 times) to Serengeti guiding.
A Masai giraffe, the largest of the species, can grow up to 6m tall

DAY ONE: SLOW GNUS DAY

IT'S BEEN AN EXCELLENT NIGHT FOR THE PREDATORS OF the Serengeti. As the sun starts to inch over the horizon and cast a pale light over the acacia-pocked plains, it reveals a scene of nocturnal carnage. There are bones here, bones over there, bones everywhere. White bones picked clean and dazzling, as if fashioned from porcelain; scrappy, dirty bones, bits of unidentifiable flesh still clinging to them; bones that retain the shape of the animal from whence they came.

Above it all, vultures wheel through the sky or sit hunched in acacias, occasionally floating down to earth to better inspect a kill, looking every bit as sinister as one might hope from their villainous, cartoon reputation. A good number of the night's revellers are still out, enjoying the last bits of the feast before heading home for a day's solid napping.

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About Lonely Planet Traveller (UK)

In the September issue… pick out your own bucket-list experiences from our selection of 40, from crossing the Canadian Rockies by train to admiring autumn leaves (in May) under the peaks of Chile's Torres del Paine; book a Great Escape to Ibiza, to discover parts of the island that move to a different beat from the legendary clubs; keep pace with herds of wildebeest as they migrate across Tanzania's wondrous Serengeti; set off on a road trip following the Mississippi River to New Orleans, through the heart of America's musical culture; and much more