Driving northeast from Rome, into deepest Lazio, you soon come across some places that can only be in Italy. Penny Wainwright takes the tour…

The River Aniene, site of the Palio di San Lorenzo; I Canaje, the public laundry in Pacentro; view of Subiaco from Palazzo del Drago; handmade paper and watermark; a pilgrim walks through Castel di Tora; the view from Rocca Lorenizo; 12th-century tower in Castel di Tora; traditional greeting in Castel di Tora

Images by Penny Wainwright

On the drive from Rome through the tree-covered hills of Lazio, on the shores of Lago Turano, is Castel di Tora, one the Borghi più belli d’Italia; and with the Monte Navegna and Monte Cervia nature reserve close by, it is indeed a picturesque spot, with a curious recent history. Built on a rocky outcrop, this medieval village is dominated by its 11th-century fortress tower, which is all that remains of the original castle. A river used to run through the valley, until 1936, when the Turano dam was built to provide water for hydro-electric power and the lake was created. Once the valley was flooded and farming was lost, the number of inhabitants dwindled from 1,000 to just 300 today. In the village I met the mayor, Ceserina d’Alessandro, and villagers in their traditional dress, including Rita, who owns a small shop in the village and is known as ‘Madame della Carpe’. Such is the bond of this close-knit community, Rita tells me the villagers are her family, as she now lives on her own. Local artist Elisabetta Catarno creates mosaics of native wildlife using shells collected from the lake’s shores and they adorn the walls of houses along the narrow streets of the village.

View across Lake Turano from Antuni

The ruins of Nero’s villa in Subiaco

Palazzo del Drago, Subiaco

Shell art in Castel di Tora

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

TOUR CASTEL DI TORA •1

☎ +39 389 686 0142

www.camminandocon.org

Visit Antuni and the Palazzo del Drago by Jeep or take a walking tour. The Riserva Naturale Monti Navegna e Cervia guides offer tours which can be booked via the contact details given here.

VISIT THE MONASTERY AT SUBIACO •2

Piazza Santa Scolastica, 1 – 00028 Subiaco

☎ +39 0774 82421

www.ethea.org

www.benedettini-Subiaco.org

The monastery of Santa Scolastica was one of twelve created by St Benedict and is the only surviving monastery. The façade was rebuilt after the Second World War, but behind this are Renaissance, Gothic and 13th-century cloisters. The bell tower dates from the 12th century. There is a library containing an important collection of early Italian books. It is free to visit and is open daily from 9.00 to 12.30 and 15.30 to 19.00.