It’s usually not possible to use the yarn quoted in a vintage pattern, so you’ll need to make a yarn substitution. Some vintage patterns only list a weight of yarn, while other patterns give you a long list of possible yarns that you could use (see right). If a specific yarn is listed, there’s usually little information in the pattern about the yarn’s weight or fibre, so you’ll need to turn detective and search online to find more information – Ravelry is particularly helpful.
Start by matching the yarn’s weight, but don’t trust the label! Yarns were very different in the 19th and 20th centuries, so a ‘DK’ label could be closer to today’s 4ply or aran yarn. Cross reference that with the hook size, which can help give you an idea of the modern yarn weight that you could try (see table opposite). Then match the fibre content, or choose a blend that’s close to the original to ensure a similar drape and texture.