Camping on Cribyn
Photo credit: Jim Cossey
Some sports fans might claim ‘Cymru am byth’ – the motto of the Welsh Guards, formed in 1915 – for their own, come match day. But nowhere is this phrase – meaning ‘Wales forever’ or occasionally ‘long live Wales’ – more powerful or apt than within the context of the land itself. Rocky outcrops in Anglesey have been dated back to the Precambrian Era, the earliest part of Earth’s history. The Latin word for Wales (Cambria) is even used internationally to describe the Cambrian Era of geology, some 500 million years ago. From the Black Mountains in the south to the Yr Wyddfa (Snowdon) massif itself, there’s a reason these mountains feel almost timeless.
South-westerlies and westerlies blow in from the Atlantic Ocean, and the Welsh maritime climate creates a mood and an interplay of often watery sunlight and cloud like no other. For hillwalkers like us, it means the memorable days are hardwon – and likely wet. Perhaps this is why the welcome is always warm in the walkers’ pubs up and down this country, with its own lyrical language and diverse regional identities. To know Wales is to delight in its mythologies, culture of song and storytelling, and to hear its histories. Here, we hear from six residents of Cymru about homecoming in these hills.
WHERE THE LIGHT GETS IN
Lena Drapella travels the world photographing athletes climbing in spots of global significance and renown. Here, she recalls a particularly special day outdoors in the shadow of Llechog in Eryri (Snowdonia) – the home of adventure to which she always chooses to return.
It wasn’t an unusual day. The morning had been spent working at home, accompanied by aquiet yet steady ‘tac tac tac’ on the roof. The sound had become so familiar over the last few months.
Imoved to North Wales over three years ago. Icame for the beauty of its mountains and the landscape; I stayed because of the people. Ihave never felt more at home anywhere else. The outdoor community in North Wales is used to expanding and contracting seasonally –alot of us who decided to settle here tend to have a somewhat nomadic past. Some choose to break the monotony of winter by venturing south, but upon their return they are welcomed back with open arms. For me, the feeling of coming back is not unlike having butterflies in your stomach.
The rain eased off in the afternoon. Acall from afriend confirmed what I’d hoped: this was our window to leave the house. Llanberis Pass is only 10 minutes away from home. It’s known for keeping the sun at bay, only letting it in on rare occasions. The clouds still hang heavy; but through them, the sun finds away, casting its rays down onto the land below. For abrief moment, the mountains are transformed into an expertly lit stage. Enchanted by the rays dancing on the hills, I take out my camera. The light is ethereal, restorative, but short-lived.
Those of us who choose to live here are accustomed to the long winter of monochrome that surrounds and enshrouds everyday life. But it’s moments like this, for which we endure it, and we love it. In that simple moment, with the sun’s light touching the earth, we’re reminded of the incredible beauty that’s right in front of us, even on the most ordinary days. The moment didn’t last long –less than five minutes or so. But the beauty of it will stay with me. Sometimes, you just need to leave the house.