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Small-scale Denmark knows how to get the best from its land and sea. Head to North Zealand for prize produce and simple cooking

Mackerel, cabbage and powdered kale at Sletten.
Artisan sausagemaker Flemming Bisp Høeg at Kødsnedkeren
Beaches, like this one at the resort town of Tisvilde, run for an almost unbroken 35 miles from Hundested to Helsingør
A floral hamper at Rokkedysse farm.
Kronborg Castle in Helsingør (known as Elsinore in older English);
a variety of dishes at Sletten;
its co-owner Jakob Thorning Christiansen;
its co-owner Jakob Thorning Christiansen; houses on Sortebrødrestræde in Helsingør

GORDON HENRIKSEN DOESN’T WANT ME TO get my hopes up. We were supposed to spend a morning fishing in the narrow strait that separates Denmark from Sweden but the weather, always mercurial in this part of the world, had dashed our plans. Though we managed to reschedule days later, it was only for an hour, and that – according to Gordon – hardly leaves time to catch much of anything, especially for a novice like me. ‘It’s not like you can just drop a line and pull it back out with mackerel on the end,’ he warns. ‘The Øresund has some world-class fishing, but it still takes time.’

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February 2018 Issue of Lonely Planet