The Spice of Life

AUBERGINE TARTE TATIN

Aubergine tarte tatin; see overleaf for recipe

PHOTOGRAPHY NASSIMA ROTHACKER

SERVES 4

I served this dish of marinated harissa aubergines in puff pastry in St Paul’s Cathedral, London, as part of a Christmas charity gala. It looks so impressive, yet it is a super-simple baked delight. Drizzle over the beautiful green tahini to bring the tart to life.

Serve with roast potatoes and seasonal greens, or salad leaves in summer.

● 1 large or 2 small aubergines

● 3 tbsp rose harissa

● 2 tbsp olive oil

● 1 sheet of ready-rolled puff pastry

● Sea salt

● 1 tbsp runny honey, to serve

FOR THE GREEN TAHINI SAUCE

● 60g runny tahini

● 1 garlic clove, crushed

● 30g coriander or parsley leaves

● 2 tbsp lemon juice

TO GARNISH

● Mint leaves, finely chopped

● A few pomegranate seeds (optional)

1. Cut the aubergines into 2cm discs (enough to cover the tart), rub a little salt over each, then rub the harissa paste all over them, adding 1 tablespoon of the olive oil to help spread it.

2. Add the remaining oil to a large ovenproof frying pan, about 26cm in diameter, and place over a medium heat. Add the aubergine slices in a single layer and cook, turning for about 10 minutes, until slightly browned on both sides and softened slightly. Remove from the heat.

3. Preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F/gas mark 6. Lay out the pastry on a flat surface and cut a circle a little larger than the pan, allowing for shrinkage. Carefully drape the pastry over the aubergines, tucking in the sides around the edge. Prick a few holes using a sharp knife, to allow out the steam, and transfer the pan to the oven. Bake for 25–30 minutes, until the pastry has risen and is golden. (You can, if you wish, prepare the tart up to the point that it goes in the oven and refrigerate until you’re ready to cook, increasing the baking time by 10 minutes.)

4. Meanwhile, blitz the ingredients for the green tahini sauce together in a small food processor, adding a splash of water for pouring consistency.

5. Remove the tart from the oven and leave it to stand for 5 minutes to cool a little. Grab a plate big enough to cover the pan and, taking care to protect your hands from the heat, flip the tart upside down onto the plate.

6. Drizzle the tart with the honey and green tahini sauce and garnish with mint and pomegranate seeds, if desired.

HARISSA SALMON WITH ROCKET CHIMICHURRI & Z A’ ATA R ROAST POTATOES

SERVES 4

Accidental recipes from fridge raids seem to be my best inventions; pairing together ingredients to use up before they get thrown out gives me such a buzz. I once had copious amounts of potatoes and wild rocket to use up – here is the result: sunset-red salmon against a bright green chimichurri with rocket leaves destined for the bin. It is a great dinner party dish where everyone helps themselves.

● 4 salmon fillets, each about 120g

● 2 tbsp rose harissa

● 1 tsp runny honey

● Sea salt and ground pepper, to taste

FOR THE ZA’ATAR GARLIC POTATOES

● 1kg baby new potatoes

● 25g butter, cut into cubes

Harissa salmon with rocket chimichurri & za’atar roast potatoes; see next page for recipe

● 3 garlic cloves, crushed

● 1 tbsp za’atar

● 2 tbsp olive oil

● Small bunch of parsley (optional)

FOR THE ROCKET CHIMICHURRI

● 50g wild rocket, even on its last legs

● 1 garlic clove, crushed

● 1 tbsp capers

● 1 preser ved lemon, finely chopped

● 1 shallot, finely chopped

● ½ tsp Aleppo pepper (or chilli flakes)

● 2 tbsp white wine vinegar

● ¼ tsp sugar

● 10 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

● Sea salt flakes, to taste TO SERVE

● Green salad or steamed greens

1. Place the salmon fillets in a baking tray and rub the harissa all over them. Drizzle over the honey, sprinkle with a tiny bit of salt and set aside.

2. Preheat the oven to 190°C/375°F/gas mark 5. Meanwhile, scrub – don’t peel – your potatoes, cut in half and cook in boiling water for about 8 minutes. Drain and transfer to a second baking tray. Add the cubes of butter, garlic, za’atar, olive oil, and salt and pepper to taste. Roast in the oven for 25 minutes, shaking once halfway through.

3. Meanwhile, finely chop the rocket leaves, taking your time and transfer to a bowl. Add the garlic, capers, preserved lemon and shallot. Then, add your seasonings of Aleppo pepper, vinegar, sugar and salt to taste. Pour in the olive oil, mix well and leave to stand for at least 10 minutes before serving to ensure that all the flavours have infused. This will keep in the fridge for 48 hours.

4. Add the salmon baking tray to the oven and cook alongside the potatoes, for 15 minutes.

5. Remove the potatoes and salmon from the oven, chop the parsley, if using, and sprinkle it over the potatoes. Serve the salmon on top of the potatoes, with the chimichurri in a bowl on the table for everyone to help themselves, and accompanied by a green salad or some seasonal steamed greens.

WHOLE CAULIFLOWER S H AWA R M A WITH PISTACHIO YOGHURT

SERVES 2–3

Make this impressive cauliflower for a midweek dinner or as a fuss-free centrepiece to wow your guests. You can buy a shop-bought shawarma mix for ease, or make your own from the spices below. Serve the cauliflower on top of couscous or wrap it all up in a flatbread.

It also makes a lovely side dish for roast chicken or with a couple of layered salads for a mezze experience.

● 1 large cauliflower

● 1 packet of mixed grains or couscous (soaked in vegetable stock) or shop bought pittas or flatbreads, to ser ve

● Pomegranate seeds (optional but pretty), to garnish

FOR THE SHAWARMA PASTE

● 50ml melted butter

● 50ml olive oil

● 3 garlic cloves, crushed

● 1 tsp sweet smoked paprika

● 1 tsp cayenne pepper

● 1 tsp ground coriander

● 1 tsp ground cumin

● 1 tsp ground turmeric

● 1 tsp ground allspice

● ½ tsp ground cinnamon

● Juice of ½ lemon

FOR THE PISTACHIO YOGHURT

● 75g coriander stalks and leaves

● 40g shelled pistachios

● 2 garlic cloves, peeled

● 2 tbsp lemon juice

● 250g Greek yoghur t

● Sea salt, to taste

1. Preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F/gas mark 6. Remove the outer leaves from the cauliflower, keeping some back. Bring a large pan of water to the boil, add the cauliflower and blanch for it for 5 minutes. Drain and leave for 5 minutes to dry out and cool a little. Mix all the ingredients for the shawarma paste together and rub it over the cauliflower. Place in a baking tray, with the reserved leaves, and roast for 40 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, make the pistachio yoghurt. Blitz the coriander (saving a few leaves to garnish), pistachios (saving a few, chopped, to garnish), garlic, lemon juice and yoghurt together. Season with salt to taste and set aside.

3. Heat the grains (if using), or soak the couscous in vegetable stock, or warm the pittas or flatbreads. Serve the cauliflower on a platter, topped with a drizzle of pistachio yoghurt, the reserved coriander leaves and chopped pistachios, and pomegranate seeds (if using). Quite simply, delicious.

TIP Prepare all the elements before roasting the cauliflower for half the given time, finishing the cooking once your guests arrive

GRILLED AMARETTO PEACHES WITH WHIPPED AMARETTI MASCARPONE

SERVES 4

This is the perfect dinner-party dessert.

No baking, a throw-together, loweffort, last-minute pudding. Grilling fruit intensifies the flavour, and soaking in alcohol gives you an instant sauce, although you can skip it – or use almond syrup in its place – if you prefer to keep this divine dessert alcohol-free.

● 4 firm peaches

● 8 shop-bought amaretti biscuits, slightly crushed

● Finely shredded mint leaves, to decorate

FOR THE POACHING SYRUP

● 200ml water

● 100ml Amaretto liqueur (or almond syrup for a non-alcoholic version)

● 50g caster sugar

● 4 pared strips of lemon zest

● Juice of ½ lemon

● 1 vanilla pod or ½ tsp vanilla bean paste

FOR THE WHIPPED MASCARPONE

● 250g mascarpone, at room temperature

● 200ml double cream

● 50g icing sugar

● Seeds from 1 vanilla pod (see poaching syrup above) or 1 tsp vanilla bean paste

1. First make the poaching syrup by combining the water, Amaretto (or almond syrup), sugar, lemon zest strips and lemon juice in a pan. If using a vanilla pod, split it in half lengthways and scrape out the seeds. Set the seeds aside to use in the cream and add the empty pod to the poaching syrup pan (or the vanilla bean paste). Gently bring to the boil, then turn down the heat and simmer for 5 minutes until the sugar has dissolved. Take off the heat and leave to cool to room temperature.

2. Halve the peaches and remove the stones, place in a baking tray or dish cut-side up and pour over the cooled poaching syrup. Leave to soak for at least 1 hour, turning them once halfway.

3. Next, whip the mascarpone, cream, icing sugar and reserved vanilla seeds (or paste, if using) together, using an electric whisk or by hand, until the mixture is light and fluffy.

4. Heat a griddle pan, ideally non-stick, over a medium-high heat until hot, place the peaches cut-side down in the pan. Leave for about 2 minutes to achieve the blackened griddle marks, then turn them over and cook for a minute on the other side. Simmer the poaching syrup for 10 mins to reduce.

5. When you are ready to plate, present the dessert on one large sharing platter or as individual servings. Swirl the whipped mascarpone onto your chosen base, place two peach halves on top, drizzle over the poaching syrup, sprinkle over the crushed amaretti biscuits, and decorate with mint leaves.

BROWN BUTTER MADELEINES & POMEGRANATE GLAZE

MAKES 16–18

These oyster-shaped cakes are the easiest, prettiest little cakes you can ever make; the tin does all the hard work for you. Once you master the sponge, the creative opportunities are endless. A dusting of icing sugar is also magic, but elevating them with a glaze makes them French-patisserie window-worthy. I have added a Middle Eastern influence with the pomegranate glaze, for a pretty pink tone, and with the rose petals and pistachios this delicious delight will have your guests taking photos.

The brown butter gives these tasty morsels more depth and luxury.

● 100g unsalted butter, plus extra, melted, for greasing

● 100g plain flour, plus extra for dusting

● 1 tsp baking powder

● Pinch of sea salt

● 2 eggs

● 100g caster sugar

● 1 tbsp clear honey

● 1 tsp vanilla bean paste

● 20ml slightly warm milk

FOR THE POMEGRANATE GLAZE

● 50g icing sugar

● 1 tsp pomegranate molasses

● 4 tsp water

TO GARNISH

● Edible rose petals

● Sliced pistachios

1. Put the butter in a light-coloured pan so you can see it changing colour, place over a medium heat, then simmer for 4–5 minutes until it turns golden brown. Once the butter starts to foam, keep your eyes on it because it can go from brown to burnt very quickly. Pour into a heatproof bowl and set aside to cool.

2. Mix the flour, baking powder and salt together in a small bowl. In a separate, large bowl, and using an electric beater, whisk the eggs, sugar, honey and vanilla for about 5 minutes, until fluffy.

3. Gradually whisk in the dry ingredients, followed by the cooled melted butter and the milk. Cover and chill for about 2 hours, or overnight.

4. Grease a madeleine mould well with melted butter and lightly dust with flour, tipping out any excess. If you only have one mould you might need to bake the madeleines in two batches, depending on the size of your mould. Leave this in the fridge for 15 minutes while you prepare the glaze by mixing the ingredients together; you want the consistency of double cream.

5. Preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F/gas mark 6. Spoon 1 level tablespoon of the madeleine mixture into each dip in the prepared mould and bake for about 8–10 minutes until golden. Tip the madeleines gently onto a wire rack to cool for about 10 minutes, while you bake the next batch.

6. Decorate the cooled madeleines by dipping half of each in the pomegranate glaze. Sprinkle them with rose petals and pistachios, and serve them on the same day. I love these with a cup of fresh mint tea.