ILLUSTRATION: KERRY HYNDMAN
Spanning Europe and Asia, Istanbul has always been a major hub, for travellers and traders alike, from its incarnations as the ancient shipping port of Byzantium, the Silk Road stop of Constantinople, and the terminus of the iconic Orient Express.
Although officially secular since 1928, silhouettes of minarets are still around, and most visitors don’t venture beyond the sights of Sultanahmet. Beyond the neighbourhood, Istanbul is one of Europe’s most populous cities, home to nearly 15 million residents, and while much of its suburban sprawl consists of identikit modern Asian architecture, there are districts replete with Parisian parlours, artistic enclaves, and offbeat treats to be found just a stone’s throw from the centre.