Climber Magazine Jul/Aug23 Back Issue

SCOTLAND ROCKS
Many years ago, 23 to be exact, I went on a week-long trip to the
far north of Scotland to climb on some fantastic crags in that region.
We started in the northwest on the delightful routes at the coastal
crag, Reiff, before heading further up the coast. We landed at Sheigra,
a lovely sea-cliff with routes to match and one I had heard about in
hushed tones in a Sheffield pub before the crag became more widely
known – a team of renowned Sheffield residents had developed the
cliff. On the way southwards, our merry band of four headed to the
Aberdeenshire coast and the granite sea cliff at Meikle Partans. Finally,
we took the long journey home, taking time out with a quick hit on
Polney Crag near Dunkeld for more enjoyable climbing. So why the trip down memory lane? It’s the news of awesome new routes in Scotland and, in particular, Robbie Phillips climbing on Ben Loyal, situated just to the south(ish) of Sheigra. It brought back memoriesof those good times with good friends – one of whom is sadly no longer with us.
That same year I made numerous trips to Scotland, including the
northeast, west and south of the country, whilst working on the photography for a book (sadly cancelled at a late stage by the commissioning publisher) that would have highlighted the wealth of Scottish climbing and the beauty of the landscape. It’s been too long since I last ventured to the far north and I’ve made a promise to myself that next year will be the year of Scottish rock trips. Watch out Scotland; I’ll be there with rock shoes and camera at the ready.
Talking of spectacular parts of the world, the Romsdal area of Norway is up there with the best. Roadside crags, big walls and the famous Troll Wall, the largest north face in Europe, await. One of Troll Wall’s fi rst ascensionists, Tony Howard, has written an article for this issue accompanied by a collection of breath-taking images that show the true beauty of the region. Until next time, be safe.
David