FRONT
LIGHTS
We help you choose the best option for riding in the dark
Yes, it’s already that time of year again when the clocks go back, shrinking those precious hours of daylight. That means it’s also time to dig out your bike lights and see if they’re in need of an update.
If new versions are required, it can be hard to know where to start, so we’ve provided some pointers to help you find the right solution for your needs. Check out the ‘Key considerations’ section to help get you started.
Technology has been marching on at quite a pace over the past few years, and you’ll be pleased to know that today’s lights are more sophisticated and more powerful than ever, while prices haven’t rocketed up. Head to ‘The latest on lights’ section to make sure you’re up to speed with what to expect in your new lights. From runtimes to charging and mounts to modes, you’ll soon be clued up.
We haven’t stopped there, though – we’ve also tested six front lights with outputs between 700 and 1,000 lumens that cost £46-£95 to help you make your choice.
These were thoroughly put through their paces on the bike, mainly on dark roads to get a good idea of their light throw and illumination pattern in different modes. Our tester also checked how easy it was to switch between modes and whether he was plunged into darkness or low-output flashing settings when cycling through them.
In an off-bike test, the lights were fully charged, then put on their highest output to see how long they lasted and what happened when the battery level was low.
We also looked at what kind of mounts the lights have and how easy they are to attach and remove from your bike, plus weight, waterproofing, size and more. We hope you find it illuminating (sorry!).
Your tester…
Paul Norman
● Paul’s been writing about bike tech and reviewing all things cycling for almost a decade. He enjoys all sides of the sport, from road cycling to mountain biking.
Key considerations
Whether you’re looking for a specialist bike light or a set for commuting, here are the main things to think about.
Brightness
A bike light is important for you to be seen by, as well as to help you see the road ahead, especially on unlit roads. Virtually all modern bike lights use LEDs, which can be extremely bright.
Beam pattern
How the light projects can make a huge difference to you being seen and seeing, with some less-powerful lights outperforming brighter lights in real-world situations.
Battery life
A decent battery life will give you peace of mind while out cycling. There’s little point in having a powerful light if it loses power after a short while.
Mounting
How a bike light mounts can determine its best use. Fixed mounts will hold a light securely in place but lighter strap mounts mean you can easily remove the light when locking up your bike.
Waterproofing
Keeping your light in working order is essential, and that often means keeping rain out. A bike light’s IP code will tell you how waterproof it is. IP4 protects against splashes of water, while an IP7 product will survive total immersion.
The latest on lights
We get you up to speed with recent developments in lighting your way
It’s probably been a while since you last invested in some bike lights, so read on to find out what’s changed.
01
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Light output keeps growing
We live in a golden age for bike lights, with increased output coming from increasingly efficient LEDs. Take the Exposure Sirius (on test), for example. Back in 2013, the Sirius Mark 2 emitted just 360 lumens; today, the Mark 10 pumps out 950 lumens from the same size, and it costs less too.
It’s not just Exposure – the Lezyne Macro Drive was a 350-lumen light in 2013, while the Micro Drive 800+ version in this test has over double the output for the same price.
02
Sizes are still compact
● Despite the extra power on tap, lights are staying roughly the same size. Most are pretty compact, at least in the sub-1,000-lumen output range. If you want more illumination for off-road riding, you’re better off with a lower output flood-style light and a helmet-mounted light with a more focused beam than a single, hefty light on your handlebar.
Heat management has been an issue with higher-output lights, but modern LEDs are efficient enough that a large case with cooling features is, in most cases, not needed. I found that some lights were getting hot in a static test of peak beam runtimes, though, and suspect that heat-throttling of light output was a factor in longer-than-stated runtimes.
03
Systems can be more complex
● Some lights still have you scrolling through a range of outputs, from high to low via flashing, so switching beam intensity while riding is a pain. But many allow you to choose your preferred illumination levels, or they hive off flashing modes to a different menu. On-light setup can be a chore though, requiring the right number of presses of the control button for the correct amount of time in the approved order – expect to spend time with the manual.
A few brands, such as Magicshine, have an app to configure their lights.
It makes setup easier, once you’ve paired your light to your phone, but in most cases app functionality is rather limited and you’ll probably do it once and never use it again.
04
There are more light formats and mounting options
● There are still plenty of sausage-shaped lights to choose from, designed to be mounted above the handlebar. But many lights are now supplied with a GoPro adapter, so they can be placed under an out-front style cycling computer mount. Not only does this free up handlebar space, but it places the light further forward, so the handlebar drops won’t get in the way and limit side-on visibility.
Other lights have a flood style, with a broad and flat format and a larger lens in front of the LEDs. These tend to be best fitted under the handlebar or, again, under an out-front computer mount. They usually offer a good spread of light and a more structured beam pattern than stick-style lamps.
Make sure your computer mount can stand the extra weight of a light, if that’s your plan. It’s probably worth investing in a metal mount rather than relying on the plastic one supplied with your cycling computer or bike.