Gill Meller A COOK’S YEAR
During his 11 years at River Cottage, our resident columnist has made an art of knowing how to show off seasonal food to its best advantage. This month he turns his attention to trout in all its fresh and flavoursome glory
RECIPE, FOOD STYLING AND STYLING GILL MELLER PHOTOGRAPHS ANDREW MONTGOMERY
what’s good now.
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“I pull up at the disused petrol station and get out of my car. A man takes a white plastic bag from the boot of his Volvo and hands it to me. I hand him cash in return, then turn and begin to walk back to my vehicle. As I open the door he shouts, ‘Same again next week?’ I give him a thumbs-up and we go our separate ways. This is not the usual way I procure my ingredients, but I wish more of my food shopping could be done like this. I arrive home in possession of two brown trout so fresh they could almost still be alive. The fish have just been caught from the clean waters of a large stocked reservoir in east Devon. They’re big, strong and full of flavour.