There is wit, wisdom, creativity and comfort in the best food writing. A good recipe – and a good turn of phrase – can open minds and hearts as well as satisfy stomachs. Debora Robertson sings the praises of a rich lineage of female food writers who’ve brought so much more to the table than mere words on a page

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We are living through a remarkable era of food writing, which continues to open up the world in the most mouth-watering way

Sometimes when I’m feeling exhausted, grumpy or sad, I grab the remote and spin through the channels until I find the Food Network and my dear Ina. Ina Garten, also known as the Barefoot Contessa after the posh deli she used to own in the Hamptons in New York, is my go-to televisual comfort watch. There’s nothing fancy or complicated about her food – think pot pies, gratins, big salads and slabs of brownies. Ina’s books and programmes are filled with friends and stories. Yes, of course, the scenes are set up for television. There she goes, taking curried chicken wraps to a freezing-looking beach-volleyball picnic, or making little sandwiches for the opening of her friend’s florist shop, or arranging the snacks for her bridge-night pals. But you get the impression that whether the cameras are rolling or not, Ina is living a big, wonderful life full of friends and fun. (If you know any different, please don’t tell me.) She also seems never to have met a cocktail she didn’t like, which is practically my number one requirement in a friend.