ICECREAM
When it comes to traditional British ice cream, for the full-on sensation of creamy, velvety gorgeousness you need to make it with a classic egg custard base. It takes more time and you have to make it with care, but boy is it worth it. Food editor Jen Bedloe shows you how to get it right and adds some classic flavours. Plus: Phoebe Stone has the low-down on ice cream folklore, and sweet-toothed food experts reveal their favourite iced treats
AN ICE CREAM TIMELINE
1st century AD
During the T’ang period in China, fermented milk was mixed with flour and camphor (don’t try it at home) and chilled to make a distant relative of the creamy treat.
13th century
The first known record of making artificial snow and ice, using water and saltpetre (potassium nitrate), was published by Arab historian Ibn Abu Usaybi’ah.
1589 Italian scholar Giambattista della Porta described how to freeze diluted wine, to be sucked from the glass.
THE KEYS TO SUCCESS
Classic vanilla ice cream has a custard base made with eggs and cream, flavoured with good quality vanilla. You need to:
1 USE PROPER VANILLA That’s pods or vanilla extract (not essence).
2 HEAT THE CUSTARD GENTLY Stir it constantly too, otherwise the eggs can suddenly overcook and scramble.
3 FREEZE-CHURN OR WHISK THE MIXTURE This stops ice crystals forming and makes the texture smooth and velvety.
THE CLASSIC Vanilla ice cream
MAKES ABOUT 2 LITRES. HANDS-ON TIME 1 HOUR, PLUS CHILLING AND FREEZING
MAKE AHEAD Keep the ice cream in an airtight container for 4-5 days. FOOD TEAM’S TIPS Wash and dry the used vanilla pods, then put in a jar of caster sugar to infuse your own vanilla sugar. Lightly beat and freeze the egg whites to use in another recipe. If the custard turns grainy in step 3, whisk with a balloon whisk to bring it back together.
• 600ml carton double cream • 568ml full-fat milk • 2 vanilla pods, split lengthways with a sharp knife (or 2 tsp vanilla bean paste) • 5 large free-range egg yolks (see tip) • 225g golden caster sugar
YOU’LL ALSO NEED…
• Digital or jam thermometer; ice cream machine or electric hand whisk; 2 litre container with an airtight lid
1 Put the cream and milk in a large heavy-based saucepan. Add the vanilla pods and heat gently until almost boiling, then remove from the heat and leave to infuse for 20 minutes. Remove the vanilla pods, scrape out the seeds with the point of a knife and mix into the cream.
2 Put the yolks, sugar and a pinch of salt in a bowl and beat for 3 minutes using an electric hand whisk until thick and pale - the beaters should leave a ribbon trail when lifted out of the mixture. Gradually beat in the infused cream mixture, then pour into a clean pan.
3 Cook over a very low heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, for about 10 minutes until thickened. The heat needs to be low, otherwise the eggs will scramble. Here’s how to tell if the custard mix is ready: the temperature should be 75°C on a digital thermometer and the custard should coat the back of the spoon (if you draw the tip of your finger through the custard on the spoon, it should leave a clear trail). Pour the custard into a bowl and cover the surface with a piece of damp compostable baking paper to prevent a skin forming. Cool for an hour, then chill for at least 2 hours.
4 Freeze-churn in an ice cream maker according to the instructions until thick but still soft enough to be spoonable. If you don’t have an ice cream maker, the trick is to whizz the ice cream several times as it freezes, to prevent ice crystals forming and to get a velvety texture. Do this by whisking with an electric hand mixer every hour for 3-4 hours until the ice cream is smooth and voluminous, then freeze for at least 4 hours until solid.
5 Remove from the freezer 15 minutes before scooping so it softens a little. See overleaf for flavour and topping ideas.
50G SCOOP 151kcals, 12.2g fat (7.3g saturated), 1.5g protein, 8.8g carbs (8.8g sugars), trace salt, no fibre