Welcome.
PORTRAIT: PAUL MITCHELL. FOOD PHOTOGRAPH: INDIA WHILEY-MORTON
A word about frugality. W hen I was growing up, my Welsh and Cornish grandmas (and Mum, actually) were gold-star revampers of the leftover. Uneaten mash had no chance of languishing in a saucer-covered (no plastic) dish in the fridge, only to be rediscovered, mouldy, a month later. No, potato became bubble and squeak with an egg on top (a looked-forward-to alternative to tinned spaghetti hoops). Sunday’s chicken became curry (lovely) and fricassee (not-so-lovely stringy chicken scraps in white sauce) and, lastly, soup (stock, leftover veg and who knows what else but always a treat).