This is a time when we’re all yearning for a bit of colour in our food as a counterpoint to the heartiness of traditional winter cooking. I hit the kitchen with a box brimming with good cheer in veg form, freshly harvested and still with soil clinging to leaves and roots. Using seasonal stars such as broccoli, leeks and root veg (not forgetting their iron-rich leafy tops – there’s no waste here), these vegetarian dishes are a celebration of our rich and fertile land… even when pickings are slim.

SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH, DEPUTY FOOD EDITOR

VIS FOR VEGETARIAN

RECIPES AND FOOD STYLING SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH PHOTOGRAPHS CLAIRE WINFIELD STYLING WEI TANG

Gnudi with fried sage, hazelnuts and jerusalem artichoke crisps

SERVES 4 AS A STARTER. HANDS-ON TIME

30 MIN, OVEN TIME 35-45 MIN, PLUS 2 HOURS

DRAINING AND OVERNIGHT CHILLING

MAKE AHEAD

Prepare the gnudi up to the end of step 5 the day before, cover and keep in the fridge. Roast and crush the nuts (step 2), make the artichoke crisps and fry the sage (step 6) and keep in separate airtight containers for up to 24 hours.

FOOD TEAM’S TIP

Wet your hands with a little water before shaping the gnudi (step 5) to stop the dumplings from sticking to them.

• 250g ricotta

• 50g blanched hazelnuts

• 350g jerusalem artichokes

• 1 garlic clove, unpeeled

• Olive oil for drizzling and frying

• 50g vegetarian parmesan-style cheese, grated, plus extra to serve

• Freshly grated nutmeg

• 250g fine semolina for dusting

• Handful fresh sage leaves

• 75g butter

YOU’LL ALSO NEED…

• Clean J-cloth or piece of muslin

1 Spoon the ricotta into a fine sieve lined with a clean J-cloth or clean piece of muslin set over a mixing bowl, then leave for 2 hours to drain off the excess water.

2 Meanwhile, heat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/gas 6. Put the hazelnuts on a baking tray and roast for 5 minutes until just golden. Transfer to a pestle and mortar, lightly crush (or put in a jug and bash with the end of a rolling pin), then set aside – see Make Ahead.

3 Peel and roughly chop 300g of the artichokes, put on a baking tray with the garlic, then toss with a drizzle of oil and seasoning. Roast for 35-45 minutes, depending on size, until softened and golden. Remove from the oven and set aside to cool.

4 Put the drained ricotta and cooled roast artichokes in a large bowl, then squeeze the roast garlic out of its skin into the bowl (discard skin). Add the grated cheese and nutmeg, mash until smooth, then taste and season with more nutmeg, salt and black pepper (if needed).