The booklist
Mark Diacono’s pick of the latest releases includes unabashed celebrations of steak and brunch alongside in-depth guides to baking and Korean street food. Plus: a uniquely absorbing food memoir
Recipe I can’t wait to make:
Brown sugar custard tart (above).
I didn’t know that… Autolyse – the resting after mixing flour with water which helps gluten develop – is a French word for ‘self-digestion’ or ‘self-breaking down’.
Find a brilliant sweet bake from Nicola on p70
BOOK OF THE MONTH
SIFT
Pastry chef Nicola Lamb’s first book is a masterclass in baking. Chapters like ‘All About Flour’ and ‘How To Build A Bake’ help you understand why something did or didn’t happen and what to do about it. There’s just enough science, delivered with an incision that illuminates the invisible elements of the baking process. If you bought this book only for the base recipes – tart pastry and the like – it would be worth it. The recipe chapters, however, organised by duration – afternoon bakes, day-long projects and weekend undertakings – cover everything from amazing gateaux to simple biscuits.