Escape

From watching penguins waddle around Antarctica to seeing lionesses hunt in Africa – five travellers describe the wildlife encounters they’ll never forget…

Chasing a lion hunt in Zambia

Enjoy thrilling feline encounters, then relax on the banks of the Zambezi at Ila Safari Lodge (above) and Tongabezi Lodge Victoria Falls

Zambia is the safari world’s best-kept secret, and I get my first glimpse of a lioness in the wild from a boat on the Zambezi river, which flows into the mighty Victoria Falls. I watch in awe as the magnificent big cat, one of nature’s greatest predators, charges along the bank of the watering hole in pursuit of an impala. Plumes of dust rise behind each pounding paw and, even from a distance, I can see the muscle power in all four of this impressive feline’s legs. The intensity of her hunt hangs in the air and it’s not until the pair disappear – still in pursuit – around the bend of the river that I realise I’ve been holding my breath.

Zambia is a rising gem of unspoiled wildlife experiences, and I stay at Ila Safari Lodge by Green Safaris, which boasts a boutique selection of luxury cabins perched on the edge of the Zambezi river. The day after I see the lioness on the chase, Ila’s brilliant guide Frazer rushes over to tell me that two cats have been spotted out in the bush. Ditching my plans for an afternoon dip in the lodge’s infinity pool, we whizz across the river by boat and pile into a four-by-four to track them down.

Blasting over the terracotta earth, I spot zebras and impala in the distance and start to worry about their safety.

Finally, veering off the dusty path, the wheels churn over knotty, pitted ground as we close in on a low tree where two lionesses – sisters, I’m told – relax in the shade. Amazingly, we’re able to get within metres of the cats, as Frazer explains how they view the vehicle and us as one very large animal, so they don’t attack (as long as we stay in the car!). He adds that lionesses, the primary hunters of their prides, can survive for up to 16 years in the wild, while males live for just 10 to 12.

Watching these majestic sisters snoozing in the golden-hour light, I’m struck by the similarity to their domesticated cousins. Seeing them yawn and unravel in the last of the sunshine like house cats, I can hardly believe one of them is the same beast I witnessed charging after her prey. I feel lucky to have experienced both aspects of their nature and will never look at my neighbourhood cats in the same way again.