Canal knowledge

AMSTERDAM IS A CITY WITH A WILD REPUTATION. BUT IT ALSO HAS STUNNING MUSEUMS AND ART GALLERIES, AMAZING PLACES TO STAY AND EAT — AND A LAIDBACK, TOLERANT ATMOSPHERE. MATT CAIN EXPLORES

MATT CAIN

BRIDGE OF SIGHS: Amsterdam, a city of bikes, canals and liberal-thinking, will take your breath away

Rowdy groups of lads rampaging through the red-light district while dopesmoking students enjoy the thrill of being legally stoned in dingy coffee shops. This was my idea of what Amsterdam was like, and for years it put me off visiting.

Of course, I always knew there was more to Holland’s biggest city but if I’m being honest, I spent much of my youth struggling against an urge to binge on booze and casual sex and for a long time thought the last thing I needed was to take a trip to Amsterdam.

However, by staying clear I always suspected I was missing out. So when some work meetings take me there, years after conquering my selfdestructive urges, I decide to stay on for the weekend and experience it for myself.

One of the first things I discover is that, as Amsterdam is small and lat, it’s an easy city to explore.

It’s a pleasure to walk around some of the 165 canals, most of them crisscrossed by brick-paved streets and lined with houses dating back to the 16th century.

The area known as the Nine Streets is the prettiest section of canals and it’s crammed with little shops selling vintage clothing, as well as cosy cafés serving traditional Dutch pancakes.

The atmosphere is calm and peaceful and, as I stroll around, sometimes all I hear is the sound of old bikes rattling along the cobbles. If you decide to follow the local custom of cycling around the city, be warned that this can be precarious; as you intersect with lanes and crossings for pedestrians, cars and trams, it can often be dificult to know who has right of way.