United Nations World Oceans Day falls on 8 June and there’s no better time than early summer to enjoy fresh fish. Research shows our nation’s shoppers are, on the whole, keen to eat fish that’s sustainably caught, landed and sourced, but it’s not always easy to know what to choose when you’re faced with a glistening array of (ideally) bright-eyed specimens. Follow our tip boxes, try something new and be inspired by these wonderful recipes to enjoy the ocean’s harvest at its best

RECIPES JEN BEDLOE

What’s good now.

Baked arctic char with mushroom hollandaise and crispy potatoes.

PHOTOGRAPHS MYLES NEW FOOD STYLING ROSIE RAMSDEN AND JEN BEDLOE STYLING OLIVIA WARDLE

TIPS FOR BUYING THE FRESHEST FISH

A quick glance at fish and shellfish can usually tell you all you need to know about its quality

• If it’s a whole fish, is it shiny? Fish that are past their best will look dull with a faded colour.

• The eyes should be clear, not cloudy. Fish such as mackerel and bass should have a bright gold ring around the cornea.

• Is the fish firm to the touch? Some fish are best stiff (in rigor mortis) including all oil-rich fish: mackerel, herring and sardines. This indicates they’ve been out of water for a short time and they’ve been stored on ice.

• Does it smell pleasant? A fresh ozone, herbaceous and cut grass aroma is good. Old seaweed and ammonia are not!

• Are the gills bright orange, pink or red? Gills turn brown the longer the fish are out of water.

• Fish fillets should look translucent and the flakes of the fish should hold tightly together.

• Shellfish should be sold live or cooked. Off shellfish are easy to identify by their bad smell. By CJ Jackson, CEO of the Seafood School at Billingsgate and Seafish UK ambassador

FISH TO TRY MORE OF

Just five types of fish make up 80 per cent of fish consumed in the UK (known as ‘the big five’): salmon, prawns, canned tuna, cod and haddock. Increasing the range of the fish we eat can help take the pressure off stocks and cut down on by-catch – and you may make some delicious discoveries. The following are green-rated (good to eat) by the MCS:

• bib or pouting • black bream, porgy or sea bream • dabs • flounder

• Cornish sardines or pilchards

• grey and red gurnard

Fish and chip tacos with pea guacamole

SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN, OVEN TIME 20 MIN

MAKE AHEAD

Have everything ready to go a few hours ahead and keep in covered bowls in the fridge. Fry the fish and warm the tortillas just before serving.

CJ’S TIP

A close relative of cod, haddock is a great buy, particularly when fished from the North Sea (with an MSC certification), Iceland and Norway.