World eats

GEORGETOWN, WASHINGTON DC

by Jeff Heilman

Georgetown Waterfront Park

Photo: Florin Cnejevici

Founded in 1751 as a tobacco port town in colonial-era Maryland, Georgetown predates Washington DC by 40 years. Designated a National Historic Landmark in 1967, this one-square-mile American treasure has timeless heritage appeal.

From strolling along the Chesapeake and Ohio (C&O) Canal and descending to the Potomac River via the circa-1895 M Street Steps, better known as “Exorcist Steps” from the demonic 1973 film classic, to ambling alleyways and hilly cobblestone streets lined with Federalist and brick and frame row houses, encounters with history abound.

Stately and picturesque appearances aside, Georgetown has a legacy of wild streaks. From go-go, punk, disco, and grunge days to fetish and smoke shops to the preppy playground era, when Brat Pack bros in polos flooded the neighborhood’s then 100-plus bars, Georgetown can kick up its heels. As part of DC, where 14.5% of the population identify as LGBTQ+, the highest percentage by state in the nation, Georgetown has also been a hotbed of gay activism and positive change.

While comparatively sedate these days, bar culture fluidly connects Georgetown’s past to the present day alongside time-honored dining institutions. Today, a roaring post-pandemic recovery that includes a surge of new restaurants, hotels, shopping, and other draws has completely reenergized Georgetown. Repeating history, DC’s oldest neighborhood is once again the place to be.

Before introducing notable newcomers, here’s a roll call of old guard establishments that are as in-demand as ever.

Opened in 1933, Martin's Tavern (1264 Wisconsin Ave., NW. Tel. 202-333-7370. martinstavern.com) is the oldest family-run restaurant in town. Settle into Booth Number 3 where Senator John F. Kennedy proposed to Jacqueline Lee Bouvier in 1953 for classics like the oyster stew, top-rated French onion soup, and globally renowned Martin’s Delight. “Perfecting,” as the restaurant claims, the Hot Brown, the enduring 1920’s signature dish of the historic Brown Hotel in Louisville, KY, Martin’s iron skillet-broiled roast turkey on toast smothered in house-made rarebit sauce and topped with tomato, applewood-smoked bacon and Parmesan cheese is a melting mouthful.