“Real Balinese food isn’t readily available to tourists…” Those words, in a travel guide I was reading after I’d booked my family’s trip, put a bit of a dampener on my excitement. And a first night amid the tourist hubbub of built-up Kuta Beach, near Bali’s airport, seemed to confirm the warning. The smiling, beckoning waiters along the main drag did promise us an “authentic” experience. Unfortunately, it was Mexican, Thai, Chicago pizza…