@LisaAbend
RISING STAR: The bread at John Baker in Zurich mixes contemporary recipes with classics—and finds favor with Daniel Humm of 11 Madison Park in New York City.
JOHN BAKER
IT WAS A busier day than usual for Franck Giovannini. As the head chef of L’Hôtel de Ville in Crissier, western Switzerland, he is the latest in a storied line of chefs, which began with Frédy Girardet—considered one of the great chefs of the 20th century. Girdardet opened L’Hôtel in 1971, and was followed by Philippe Rochat and Benoît Violier. Though Giovannini took the lead only early last year—Violier killed himself in January 2016—he has managed to maintain the restaurant’s three Michelin stars and its high position on La Liste, a global restaurant-ranking system started in France in 2015.