A Shopping List to Get Started

BY DEB BRANDT

Adobe Srock / lisovoy

A GRS Clamp attached to a workbench by an adjustable plate gives the jeweler diverse strategies for holding a piece while working with prongs.

Stone setting in a nutshell involves securing a gemstone in a metal fixture to best display the stone’s qualities. Knowing how to set a stone well is an essential jewelry-making skill.

Gemstones are typically set in prongs. Prongs hold the stone in a basket-like cradle. It can often look like a stone is glued into a setting; however, prongs provide a safe and secure place for the stone to rest. Prongs are bent toward the stone after it is seated between them. Then the tops of the prongs are dressed or trimmed and finished by rounding their edges.

Setting stones requires a knowledge of the stone itself and the available setting metals, plus the right set of tools.

Recently, I visited my cousin Doug Brandt’s jewelry studio, Collingwood Metalworks, to discuss what stone-setting tools should be included on a must-have list. A professional jeweler for over 40 years, Brandt offered ideas on tool essentials as well as building skills to the professional level.

Here are the seven tools that should be included in a stone setter’s workbox.

1 RingClamp

Brandt uses a GRS adjustable height bracket and ring clamp system that attaches to his workbench. A plate and cleat system allows the bracket to be adjusted to different heights depending on the individual project. The clamp itself can be swiveled, allowing the stone setter to keep the piece in the clamp and adjust it for ease of completing the setting. The piece of jewelry – usually a ring – can be tightened into the clamp between two heavy-duty pieces of plastic or leather so as not to scratch the item while working.