TASTES LIKE HOME
PHOTOGRAPHS GARETH MORGANS
FOOD STYLING LOTTIE COVELL STYLING SARAH BIRKS
REN BEHAN
“It’s all about the special atmosphere of the Polish Christmas Eve supper”
In Poland, where my parents were from, Christmas Eve supper is known as
Wigilia
. It comes from the word vigil and it’s the meal I cherish most. Wholly meatless, it reflects the food available during the Polish winter, with elements from the forest, sea, field and orchard.
When I was a child, preparations for the 12 dishes (one for each of the apostles) began days ahead. My job was to set the table, putting a few strands of hay under the cloth to represent the stable in which Jesus was born. An extra place would be set for the unexpected guest; I’d always wonder who might knock at the door.
I remember peering out of the window, waiting for the first star to appear, as it did to the Three Wise Men. That was our signal to begin the feast, breaking and sharing a blessed wafer called
opłatek
, with each family member bestowing good wishes on the gathering for the year ahead.
Mama, a brilliant cook, always served a fish course, including home-cured herrings with rye bread and cold salads, then beetroot soup with mushroom dumplings (
uszka
, or little ears). More fish followed, traditionally carp (not my favourite). We’d also have Polish dumplings,
pierogi
. The finale always included a baked cheesecake with dried fruit, and Christmas biscuits called
pierniczki
.
In contrast to Christmas Day with its bad cracker jokes and paper hats, Wigilia had a reverence that provided a sense of calm and reflection.
Christmas for Ren, shown here with St Nicholas and an ‘angel’, was all about food, tradition and symbolism
PORTRAIT: YUKI SUGIURA
FAVOURITE FESTIVE TRADITION
Turkey sandwiches on Boxing Day (on white, with lettuce and mayo)
Polish Christmas cheesecake
SERVES 12. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, OVEN TIME 1 HOUR, PLUS RESTING AND OVERNIGHT CHILLING
MAKE AHEAD
Make the cheesecake the day before you’d like to serve it. It will keep, covered in the fridge, for up to 3 days.
• 150g rich tea or petit beurre biscuits
• 150g unsalted butter, melted
• 180g caster sugar
• 5 large free-range eggs
• 500g full-fat cream cheese (we used Philadelphia)
• 250g quark, drained
• 250ml soured cream