Shopping Cart -

Your cart is currently empty.
Upgrade to today
for only an extra Cxx.xx

You get:

plus This issue of xxxxxxxxxxx.
plus Instant access to the latest issue of 350+ of our top selling titles.
plus Unlimited access to 30000+ back issues
plus No contract or commitment. If you decide that PocketmagsPlus is not for you, you can cancel your monthly subscription online at any time. Auto-renews at $14.99 per month, unless cancelled.
Upgrade for $1.48
Then just $14.99 / month. Cancel anytime.
Learn more
Pocketmags Digital Magazines
AU
Pocketmags Digital Magazines
   You are currently viewing the Australia version of the site.
Would you like to switch to your local site?
Read anywhere Read anywhere
Ways to pay Pocketmags Payment Types
Trusted site
At Pocketmags you get
Secure Billing
Great Offers
Web & App Reader
Gifting Options
Loyalty Points

Step by step

Life in Buenos Aires is defined by ritual and pageantry. From dancing tango to eating steak, we explore the ways in which locals - and their guests - come together
A balcony in Recoleta. Clockwise from left: Cocktails at El Presidente Bar. Jacarandas in bloom on the Avenida Corrlentes in early spring empanada class at Salu Opposite: Tango at El Deco

The day of rest - and asado

Annabella Mutto and Denise Fevre have strong feelings about asado. Technically he Spanish for a cut of beef comprising the ribs, the Buenos Aires asado is so much more, the pair of city guides breathlessly assure me. Most Sundays portenos, as residents of the city are known, get together with family and sometimes friends for a multi-course, ritualistic barbecue made up almost entirely of meat. ‘We get together, we talk loud,’ Anna says, ‘and we eat!’ Annabella, Anna for short, disagrees good-naturedly with Denise. Anna extols the virtues of lean meats; she likes the thin, sizzling entrana. Denise, horrified, insists that juicy, fatty cuts — the bife de chorizo, say, cooked through to firmness in the traditional Argentine style — are far superior. Luckily, I don’t have to choose.

I’ve been in Buenos Aires two hours, most of which I’ve spent at Don Julio, one of the best parillas (steakhouses) in the city, I’ve already eaten five courses, two of them consisting entirely of steak. Outside, people are queuing around the block to get a table. Waiters, taking pity on them, offer sparkling wine and empanadas to sate their hunger. Wine bottles cover virtually every bit of wall space and every counter top. Lights hang from wagon-wheels on the ceiling. The restaurant has no further decoration - there’s no room for any.

READ MORE
Purchase options below
Find the complete article and many more in this issue of Lonely Planet - June 2019
If you own the issue, Login to read the full article now.