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"It’s about making the best cheese we can"

What’s a nice American guy doing making cheese on a grand estate in deepest Sussex? Earning awards, for one thing. Rebecca Woollard discovers how Bruce Rowan became a champion of British cheese

Glorious Goodwood: it’s a name associated with fast cars, galloping horses and, these days, vintage festivals that attract thousands of punters. The 5,000 hectare estate in Sussex is much more than the famous racecourse. It encompasses the stately home Goodwood House, a hotel, members’ club, two golf courses, and cafés, restaurants and bars. Much of the food served in these venues comes from Goodwood’s own organic Home Farm, which is the sort of place I wish all my food was produced in: the South Downs rear up all around, the yard is spotlessly clean and there’s a discernible feeling of pride in what’s accomplished here. It radiates from the gleaming machinery and the shiny coats of the 200 dairy shorthorn cows grazing steps away from the creamery. Inside, US-born cheesemaker Bruce Rowan greets me with a big smile. It’s not surprising he’s smiling. He’s been at Goodwood for three years and last year his cheddar-style charlton won Best Organic Cheese at the annual British Cheese Awards.

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About delicious. Magazine

The March issue has inspirational ideas for the Easter Bank Holiday: gifts, chocolate eggs and the best brunches, lunches and family feasts. Enjoy recipes from Nathan Outlaw, José Pizarro and Vivek Singh – then dive into 16 pages of the best chocolate recipes ever. Plus there’s plenty of light and healthy recipes to help power you through the cold weather and our guide to making scotch eggs and the GBBO bamboozler, sweet flaky kouign ammans.