The GATHERING-IN…

Autumn brings with it memories of harvest festivals, childhood assemblies and that moment of giving thanks for the bounty this time of year brings. As the cold weather steals in, thoughts turn to comfort and warmth, and the seasonal larder lends itself so well to cooking recipes that chime with that – a time to marvel all over again at how nature gives us what we need, exactly when we need it

RECIPES AND FOOD STYLING REBECCA WOOLLARD PHOTOGRAPHS ALEX LUCK STYLING DAVINA PERKINS

COVER RECIPE

Classic French onion soup, p28

Classic French onion soup

SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 45 MIN, SIMMERING TIME 45-60 MIN

MAKE AHEAD

Make the soup up to 48 hours in advance, then cool and keep in an airtight container in the fridge, or freeze for up to 1 month. Thaw and reheat thoroughly before serving.

FOOD TEAM’STIPS

Achieving perfection with this dish is not difficult, but it takes time and good ingredients. Make sure you let the onions really break down and properly caramelise in steps 1 and 2, because once you add liquid, it stops the caramelisation process. You also need top-quality fresh beef stock. If you can find it, some veal jus or demi-glace (available from Ocado or butchers) will boost the flavour too. A stock cube or similar commercial product won’t do.

• 75g unsalted butter

• 8 large or 12 medium onions, thickly sliced

• 2 bay leaves, a few fresh parsley stalks and a few fresh thyme sprigs tied together with string to make a bouquet garni, plus a few extra thyme leaves

• 6 garlic cloves, crushed

• 1½ tbsp light muscovado sugar

• 250ml dry white wine, plus a glug

• 50ml brandy or cognac, plus an extra splash

• 1.7 litres best quality fresh beef stock (see tips)

• 12 baguette slices

• 250g gruyère cheese, grated

1 Melt the butter in a large, heavy-based saucepan that has a lid, then add the onions and bouquet garni with a generous amount of salt. Stir to coat the onions in the butter, then put the lid on and cook over a medium heat for 45 minutes to 1 hour, stirring every 5-10 minutes to make sure the onions don’t catch.