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“We must have ethics in how we fish”

The Isle of Mull, in the Inner Hebrides, is about as beautiful a setting as you can find for the skilful job of diving for scallops. The Ethical Shellfish Company goes to great depths to ensure its products are caught in a way that’s true to its name


Guy Grieve, founder of The Ethical Shellfish Company, isn’t your average fisherman. He’s lived on three continents (his accent betrays his childhood in South Africa), penned a book about wilderness survival skills, co-starred with Thomasina Miers in the Channel 4 TV show The Wild Gourmets, escaped a marketing job in Edinburgh to sail around the Caribbean with his wife and young sons in tow, and survived – by the skin of his teeth – a winter living solo in the frozen wilds of Alaska. For good measure, he’s written books about some of those experiences, too.

So forgive me for feeling a bit daunted when, with me running late to meet him on his small boat at the pier, this high achieving 43-year-old adventurer barked down the phone: “When I say you need to be here at 9am, I mean 9am, not 9.15. I’m holding up a huge salmon boat and a helicopter that needs to land.” It wasn’t the most auspicious start to an interview.

When photographer Joan and I finally arrived at Salen Pier, it was more like a scene from an action movie than the sleepy fishing village I’d envisaged. Helicopters were flying in low to winch massive boxes of fish from vast boats – a spectacle that was a cross between Apocalypse Now and a Bond movie, but set against a disarmingly beautiful island backdrop. The experience drove home how important the fishing industry is to the Isle of Mull’s economy – and how small-scale The Ethical Shellfish Company is in comparison.

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About delicious. Magazine

Mamma mia! July is delicious. magazine’s Italian issue and it’s packed with recipes from the world’s favourite cuisine. There are summer dishes from Eleonora Galasso, Giorgio Locatelli, Theo Randall, Gennaro Contaldo, Ursula Ferrigno, Sabrina Gidda and the godfather, Antonio Carluccio. Plus, there’s classic Tuscan food and a romantic menu from Venice as well as ‘nduja stuffed pork roast and three easy lasagnes. And don’t miss our cocktail-based desserts from Italian drinks – anyone for Limoncello drizzle cake or Negroni granita?