hungry traveller.
Sunset dining at Al Trabucco da Mimi, Puglia
THE SOUTH: ABUNDANT INGREDIENTS AND POWERFUL FLAVOURS
The warm Mediterranean climate fuels an abundance of ripe, sun-drenched fruit and vegetables. Sicily, home to Europe’s most active volcano, Mount Etna, benefits from particularly fertile terrain. The effects can be tasted in the intense flavour of the emerald-green bronte pistachios that are a favourite ingredient of the island’s exuberant desserts and gelato (see overleaf), and the local volcanic wines have made a name for themselves in recent years.
The strong flavours of the south are complemented by a generous use of herbs and spices. Each year, the seaside town of Diamante in Calabria hosts an international chilli festival (peperoncinofestival.org; 6-10 September in 2017) complete with a chilli-eating competition. Festival or no, chillies figure largely in Calabria. Pasta is rarely served without a pinch of chilli, and the spicy sausage-like paste ’nduja comes from this area.
Puglia is where the traditional cuisine reflects the ideals of the Mediterranean diet most closely, incorporating lots of pulses, fresh vegetables, fish and olive oil – with around 60 million olive trees, the region is Italy’s top producer of olive oil. One of Puglia’s highlights is the splendid stone-built baroque town of Lecce, where specialities include ciceri e tria (chickpeas and pasta with a little fried pasta on top).
The steep, rocky coastline of Puglia’s Gargano peninsula is peppered with trabucchi: curious fishing contraptions made of long wooden beams supporting vast nets. Several incorporate restaurants. The most atmospheric is Al Trabucco da Mim“ (left; altrabucco. it) where you can help Mimì winch the nets in and out of the sea. Enjoying a dinner of freshly caught seafood (about €80 for two) while the sun sets over the sea is idyllic.
A quick hop across to the west coast brings you to Naples, home to one of the world’s best-loved foods: pizza. Dynamic chef Gino Sorbillo, who comes from a dynasty of pizza-makers, is active in promoting the authentic Neapolitan pizza, which has had EU protected status since 2009. He’s opened pizzerias in Milan and recently New York City, but his original place in central Naples continues to draw the crowds. It’s worth queuing for a truly mouthwatering buffalo mozzarella pizza margherita (sorbillo.it; €20 for two).
The Roman Theatre in Lecce, where chickpeas and pasta rules
Market-fresh veg and tortelloni in Bologna