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An ode to AUTUMN

This month and next we welcome chef and food writer Lucas Hollweg as our fourth food writer in residence. Earlier this year he made a big decision to move from the capital to Wiltshire, where his joy of cooking comforting food at home has evolved to suit the gentler pace of life, with a nod to heady scents and flavours that anticipate festivities ahead

Food writer in residence No 4

”I love November: the bonfire air, the scuffing-up of leaves and Nature drawing down its shutters on the remains of the year. It feels like a signal to retreat from the cold and dark of the outside world – an excuse to spend time in the kitchen and around the table with friends.

As autumn slides towards winter, I find myself cooking in a way that is somehow more familiar, perhaps even old fashioned. I crave roasts and gratins, soups and stews, the unctuous comfort of risotto; food that cossets and soothes. I use a bit more cream, butter and cheese, perhaps through some primordial urge to lay down reserves for the winter ahead. And I cook a lot more pork, a meat I seldom eat in the warmer months, but which offers such rich consolation as the nights draw in. Its sweet flesh and crackled skin is a fitting foil for so many other autumn flavours.

Already in my kitchen there are arriving things that hint at the approaching Christmas feast: bowls of chestnuts and walnuts, the first of the new season’s citrus fruit from North Africa and Spain. Even the flamboyant squashes and trafficlight bunches of rainbow chard somehow presage the gaudy baubles of the festivities to come. Soon enough there will be birds to be stuffed, sprouts to be peeled, mince pies to be baked and greedily eaten. Yet that’s still a few weeks away, and there’s autumn’s last glorious gasp to celebrate before then.”

Pumpkin, gorgonzola and walnut risotto

Pumpkin, gorgonzola and walnut risotto, p52

the residency.


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About delicious. Magazine

Have you ever wanted to make your own Christmas pudding or cake for the big feast? Now you can with the new issue of delicious. It’s got the best recipes for Stir-up Sunday (26 November). Plus you can start planning for the festivities with our freeze-ahead casseroles, food lovers’ gift guide and cook book roundup. If that’s not enough to gladden the heart, Nigel Slater’s autumn classics, Paul Hollywood’s best bakes and a foolproof molten chocolate pud will definitely bring plenty of comfort and joy. Buy your copy today!