Climber  |  Jan/Feb23
OLD SCHOOL TECHNIQUE
I’ll kick off straight into this issue’s features beginning with North
Pembroke’s premier crag, the slabby delight of Carreg y Barcud. Superb rock and equally superb intricate, technical routes that, in the main, require good old-school technique and commitment rather than all-out brawn. If you like slabs then you can’t go wrong – I personally rate it as one of the UK’s best sea cliffs. While to get the very best out of the crag you need to be climbing in the lower to mid Extremes, there are easily enough routes below E1 for an enjoyable and memorable day there.
So next time in Pembroke, head north, slip on your edging shoes,
brush off those micro-wires and enjoy.
It’s that time of the year when some of you will be sharpening crampon points and ice-axes, pulling the warm gear from the cupboard and heading to the mountains to engage in winter routes. If you’ve never done it, it can be anything from a life-affi rming full-on savage experience, a calm day out climbing the best plastic ice, or a mixture of both. One thing for certain, you’ll remember it. Within the mag, Neil Adams writes about Scottish
winter climbing being the most fulfi lling yet frustrating activity but the most addictive. He gives tips on winter climbing and the never-ending hunt for good conditions. If you are heading out, it makes for an essential read.
If the cold is not for you then how about Tenerife? Part of the Canary Islands off the north African coast, this Spanish enclave is full of climbing opportunities from trad to sport and bouldering and is worth considering for your next hot rock trip. Closer to home, I had the pleasure of visiting Pontesford Rocks in Shropshire with Andy Clarke and Dave Cant whilst photographing the Easy Climbs feature.
Until next time, stay safe.
David
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