GETAWAY
A MONTH IN THE COUNTRY
Nigel and Kay Hutson enjoy a (pre-lockdown) tour of France’s beautiful Languedoc-Roussillon region
Nigel Hutson is a lifelong caravanner who bought his first tourer at the age of 22
FOR THIS TRIP we had a full four weeks away planned, so thought ourselves very fortunate indeed; and because our main stop in France was a site that we’d stayed at before, we knew what to expect.
Following three days of relaxed travelling (including an overnight ferry crossing from Hull to Zeebrugge), we arrived at Camping Le Neptune at Agde, where we received our usual warm welcome.
It’s easy to see why Neptune is so popular, with its individually separated pitches, clean facilities and lovely pool area.
After a day or two of settling in, which included trips to nearby Le Grau d’Agde – a short cycle ride along the path by the River Hérault, to a favourite seafront café and the daily market – it was time for us to venture a bit further afield.
We were keen to revisit the flight of locks at Fonséranes, on the Canal du Midi near Béziers – on our previous trip, the area had been closed for major building work.
We had been a few years before that, too, and back then you had to be careful not to fall into the water – there was no protection at all! Now there are railings (apart from the top lock), and the site has been redeveloped, with a large car park and café/restaurant. Quite frankly, they’ve done a lovely job.
It was fascinating to follow the holiday boats, often three or four at a time, from the bottom of the flight of locks to the top. Those at the top waiting to go down had a long wait! When the sluices were opened, the power of the water was phenomenal. It’s hard to believe that the actual locks are more than 350 years old.
We enjoyed lunch in the restaurant before heading for Château-Abbaye de Cassan, near Roujan. Situated among vineyards and olive groves, this 12th-century monastic retreat became a powerful royal priory and in time, a luxurious dwelling, earning itself the title Little Versailles of Languedoc. Still a private dwelling, several rooms have been restored to their former glory. The acoustics in the church would give St Paul’s Cathedral a run for its money: they are amazing.