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30 MIN READ TIME

Our writers’ solo travel fails (and rescues)

BLUE & BAGLESS IN MOZAMBIQUE

Matt Phillips Destination editor for SubSaharan Africa

@go2mattphillips

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Find the complete article and many more in this issue of Lonely Planet - May 2018
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Other Articles in this Issue


Editor’s Letter
I’m typing this with the wobbliness of fingers that comes
EXPLORE
Seoul local Hahna Yoon shows us around her favourite neighbourhood, a creative district at the heart of youth culture in the South Korean capital
The very best way to spend €250 euros in a single day
Set on a slender, foot-shaped bend where the canyon of
Summer’s calling, which means now is a great time to get behind the wheel and head to Cornwall for a weekend break full of sea air and rugged coastlines
There’s a new place to eat, drink and be merry in London
Have a desperate need to cram in as many typically
Master the challenge of getting great photos of wildlife in a natural setting
Of all the means on offer to explore this planet,
In 139 years of uninterrupted operation, Hatch Show Print has become synonymous with Nashville’s entertainment history. Meet the person who’s keeping that tradition alive
With the exception of the Loch Ness monster, no other Scottish icon is as enigmatic and contentious as the kilt. Read on to discover why
Brighter days call for your own self-catering house in the country with winning design
The plan to demolish the Eiffel Tower after the 1889
If you wish to flee the madding crowds this spring, the Blasket Islands in Ireland are just the ticket
Re-think familiar habits on overseas breaks this month, and buy new gear to bring more joy to your flying time
JOURNAL
Each month we set our Instagram followers a new and ?endish challenge– to submit photos on a theme of our choosing. Here we reveal the winning images for ‘curve’
The challenge of cycling in the foothills of the Indian Himalayas is rewarded with more memorable local encounters than can be had sat on a bus
From colonial fishing ships to presidential inaugurations, we trace the origins of Boston’s signature dish and go on a quest for a bowl of the city’s best
Photographer Adrienne Pitts travelled with friends to the ‘blue town’ of Chefchaouen in Morocco for a few days of exploration
When you’re alone in a foreign land, your happy journey of discovery can turn sour alarmingly fast, as Lonely Planet staff have found – but with a bit of luck the moment can become a golden one
I SWORE I’D NEVER GO BACK to Tenerife: three times
Moscow-based artist Gleb Solntsev on his recent trip to Phuket in Thailand
GREAT ESCAPE
The Greek islands in the northeast of the Aegean Sea are larger and less clustered than most of their neighbours in the Cyclades and Dodecanese to the south. A trip stepping ashore on three of them – Lesvos, Chios and Ikaria – introduces olive farmers and wild honey, hidden villages and untouched beaches, and perhaps the secret to long life
While the northeast Aegean is off the main tourist routes, even in the well-known Greek island groups you can ?nd the odd place that’s little changed over the decades
FEATURES
Since its 1600s Golden Age, Amsterdam has been ?lled with as many bright ideas as it has bikes and canals. Meet 10 modern creatives who are changing the way we eat, live… and cycle
Follow centuries of intrepid travellers to wild and woolly Patagonia in southern Chile, and discover a land ripe for new adventures
Discover our pick of the most brilliant architecture of the 20th and 21st centuries – you can find sublime and surreal buildings not just in modern mega-cities but also in the midst of nature
TOP PICKS
As spring returns to the largest of Scotland’s Inner Hebrides, island businesses start to gear up for visitors. Find your own great outdoors activity with this guide, as well as a couple of choices for a meal break
Choose one of three sightseeing strategies for Italy's city of gondolas, from fresh-off-the-boat to honorary Venetian. Whether you're after standout sights or backstreet bars, you'll find equal windows into city life
The Danish capital has become one of the 21st-century’s most surprising gastronomic hotspots. Is the New Nordic wave about to crest? Try these recently opened eateries to see what’s next to come out of the kitchen
Though the highest point in the Rockies is in the US, Canada’s half of the range arguably steals the show. From the gateway city of Calgary, take a summer trip to these mighty peaks in Alberta and British Columbia
TRAVEL QUIZ
1 A red cross on a white background symbolises St
BEST ROAD TRIPS
The food is the big attraction on this exhilarating drive through northern Spain. No, the scenery; or maybe the people. Ah, the drink! No, it’s the food. I think
Discover haunting lava fields, wild coastline, powerful waterfalls and majestic ice caps on an elemental journey around Iceland’s Ring Road
Roll down the roof, slip on the shades and enjoy France’s most cinematic drive, from Belle Époque Nice all the way to the Italian border – and back again
Take a drive through the crossroads of two mighty European powers: Estonia and Latvia twist their own brand of Northern culture with a history steeped in millennia
The Adriatic Highway stretches nearly 400 miles (643km) along Croatia’s coast and provides a front-row seat for 1,185 islands, an embarrassment of cultural riches and slow-food prowess
Untamed and utterly divine, Ireland’s west coast is a dramatic procession of deserted beaches and towering cliffs where traditional music and ancient castles abound
Motor racing started on public roads before moving to specialised racing tracks and none of those early road circuits conjures up the magic better than Italy’s ultimate test
From Portree on the Isle of Skye to the coastal township of Applecross on the mainland, here is a breathtaking journey around and up the Scottish Highlands
Norway may not be the cheapest country for a drive, but the upside is you will mostly have its majestic beauty and prize-winning roads to yourself
Layered with mountains and rippled with mysterious woods, the Black Forest High Road is a drive with altitude, serious curves and scenery straight from a Grimm’s fairy tale