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Subject: A taste of grey squirrel From: David Watkins Eating squirrel is more common than Lindsey Harrad believes [Jul, p130]. It’s just that they don’t taste very exciting… I was first served squirrel in northern France 30 years ago at a restaurant that specialised in traditional terroir food. Many of the dishes were described using regional dialect words that even my French-graduate wife was unfamiliar with. I ordered l’ écureuil, which I thought might be a variety of deer. What arrived was a casserole of squirrel (as I later discovered from my dictionary at the hotel!).
At the time I thought it might be jugged hare – similar flavour, although it didn’t taste that strong. I’ve also seen squirrel on the menu at lodges in rural America and pubs in rural Dorset. I’m not tempted, but chacun à son goût (each to their own taste).