Words Cheryl Freedman. Photographs iStock by Getty Images
There’s no doubt, soya ticks many of the boxes we seek in superfoods today. It’s plant-based, low-fat and protein-packed. ‘It’s got all the essential amino acids. So if you want a vegan protein alternative, it’s a good one,’ says nutritionist Rob Hobson, who works as a nutrition consultant for major food and health companies, and is co-author of The Detox Kitchen Bible. Soya milk, aka soya drink, is the main alt-milk in the health store fridge. You probably also know soya as a source of plant protein, in the shape of tofu, edamame beans and veggie sausages.
So why is there so much controversy around soya? There are a few reasons. First, soya contains isoflavones, substances known as phytoestrogens, similar to the female hormone oestrogen, and people have been worried about their effects. Second, soya crops are often genetically modified (up to 93 per cent in the US were in 2013) – although almost all GM soya in the UK is used solely as animal feed. Third, soya is a common allergen, up there in the top 14 which have to be declared on food labels. Finally, many foods containing soya can be highly processed.