Eels are mysterious, ancient creatures. Looking after them in a sustainable way has helped to preserve their lives – and to sustain a tightknit community in Northern Ireland. Lucas Hollweg travelled to Lough Neagh to learn more

PHOTOGRAPHS DAVID CHARBIT STILL LIFE STUART WEST

WHAT MAKES LOUGH NEAGH SMOKED EELS WORTHY OF A delicious. PRODUCE AWARD?

This is a wild-caught product, not farmed fish – and it shows. The lough is home to all kinds of fish fry, shellfish, insects and larvae, which provide a rich diet for the eels, helping to develop their high fat content and appealingly firm texture.

These attributes make the eels particularly suited to hot-smoking which, done carefully, allows them to retain their texture and take on a hint of smoke from the wood without overpowering their own flavour. Then, of course, there’s the fishery’s unique history and strict conservation measures.

WHAT THE JUDGES SAID

Food writer and TV presenter Prue Leith “I like the light smoke, great taste and sexy softness.”

Chef and TV presenter Andi Oliver “It has a lovely texture and bite.”

Food writer Xanthe Clay “I like its ‘eeliness’ and the nice bite of oak.”

Editor Karen Barnes “So many people are squeamish about eating eels, but banish all preconceptions. Here, the balance of a gentle smoky flavour with a yielding but firm texture is uniquely pleasing.”

4 THINGS YOU MAY NOT KNOW ABOUT EELS

• They’re born in the ocean but live most of their lives inland in fresh water, only returning to the ocean to spawn and die.