WINE
Balkan buying
Great summer tipples are coming out of the Balkans – a region making up for lost time in history
by JOE FATTORINI
Wine writing is not dangerous. So I was surprised at the look of terror on the winemaker’s face as I gently tapped at something in his vineyard with my foot.
‘Don’t kick that!’ he yelled. I stepped away as he crouched down and pulled out an army mess tin. ‘Sorry,’ he said, ‘but this field was mined in the war. You can never be absolutely sure they cleared them all.’