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The expert guide to... VERMOUTH
Fortify wine with a little grape spirit, steep natural herbs, seeds, roots and barks in it, then sweeten (or not) according to taste. That’s how vermouth has been made for centuries – first as an ancient medicine, then by the 18th century as an aperitif – before it became a staple in cocktails such as the negroni, manhattan and, of course, the martini. The name comes from the German word for wormwood, a bitter herb still used in some brands.
Vermouth’s joyful modern revival has seen classic Italian, French and Spanish versions joined by others, notably from the USA and here in the UK.
Styles range from ruby red and very sweet to the bitter dry white, but all should be deeply aromatic with distinctive herbal streaks. And anything goes when pouring, from on the rocks or in a cocktail to a cooking ingredient (try an aniseed-y dry white vermouth in a fish sauce).
As well as traditional premium brands such as France’s Noilly Prat and Italy’s Carpano Antica, here are three labels I think are well worth a try.