The book list
International inspiration is at the fore in Mark Diacono’s favourite books released this month, with odysseys into Caribbean, Indian and Mediterranean cuisines – and a day in the life of a restaurant
BOOK OF THE MONTH
LUGMA Chef Noor Murad is the co-author of two Ottolenghi Test Kitchen cookbooks, and her first solo book is a vibrant, wholehearted celebration of the food of the Middle East. The ‘my’ in the subtitle – Abundant Dishes & Stories From My Middle East – is important: the scope centres on Bahrain, where Noor was raised, while taking in the flavours of surrounding countries.
Lugma – Arabic for a bite or mouthful – is an inquisitive exploration of Murad’s past and wanting to breathe new life into the food she calls her own. The recipes are so appealing: coffee, cardamom and chipotle-rubbed lamb chops might’ve been invented for my taste buds, and next on my list is burnt aubergines with fenugreek sauce, tahini and fried shallots. There is so much gentle exuberance here: bold flavours, insightful words, unexpected combinations and more.
Practical factor A personal exploration of the food of the Middle East for those who love characterful writing to go with the 100 eye-catching, diverse recipes. While the combinations are inspired and often unusual, the ingredients – such as black limes (from Waitrose and online), chillies, cardamom, dates, sourness and herbs aplenty – are widely available.