Olia’s allotment tales

RECIPES AND FOOD STYLING OLIA HERCULES PHOTOGRAPHS ELENA HEATHERWICK

the residency.

OLIA HERCULES

Food writer in residence No 3

“I grew up with things growing around me. Our house had a garden and there were two cherry trees, a walnut tree and a row of mulberry trees in the street outside. We also had a dacha (second home in the country) with a bigger plot, and an even bigger garden at my grandmother’s. I remember gooseberry, blackcurrant and raspberry bushes taller than me (I was only little, mind). So when I found out it was possible to have an allotment, a plot of your own in London, and that it was cheap to rent, I felt elated. “I can grow tiny prickly cucumbers,” I thought. I immediately applied and got a letter saying I should think again as the waiting list is up to 10 years. My heart sank, but I didn’t withdraw my application. Almost exactly 10 years later, I got my plot. It was abandoned and needed love and time. I had plenty of the former but not enough of the latter. Or so I thought.

It’s not one of those manicured allotments, but it is thriving; my patty pan squashes and lovage are like trees, and the branches of the apple and pear trees that were already there are laden with ripe fruit. I’ve taken to growing things I can’t easily find – sweet cicely, sorrel and lemon verbena.

Next year it will be better, and I can’t wait to plant some salsify. I’m already drawing inspiration from my little plot, and seeing my son getting involved gives me hope he will have warm childhood memories, not so dissimilar to mine.”

Find out more about Olia’s allotment adventures. Search ‘Olia’s allotment’ at deliciousmagazine.co.uk

“ You can grate the beetroot and apples if you’re making the pickle to be eaten on the day but I recommend julienning them, either by hand or by putting them through the julienning attachment of a food processor. This will prevent the pickle turning into mush, especially if you’re making a big batch. A nashi pear would work here as well, or any other firm pear you have available.”